Technical flats · 4 min read
What are CADs in fashion?
When someone in a design room asks for "the CADs", what do they want? The word covers a few different things, and so do flat, croquis and sketch.
The short answer
CAD stands for computer-aided design. In a fashion design room, "CADs" usually means garments drawn on a computer, most often technical flats made in Adobe Illustrator, sometimes shown in colour and print. Elsewhere in the industry the word can also mean pattern-making software or 3D garment software, so it helps to ask which one someone means.
The three meanings of CAD
If the word confuses you, that is because it does three jobs.
| Who says it | What they mean | Usual software |
|---|---|---|
| Designers and merchandisers | Garments drawn on a computer, flat, in line or colour | Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop |
| Patternmakers | Digital pattern pieces, grading and marker making | Gerber AccuMark, Lectra, Optitex, TUKAcad |
| 3D teams | Garments simulated on a virtual body | CLO, Browzwear VStitcher, Style3D |
This guide is about the first meaning, because that is what you are most likely to be asked for.
CADs vs flats, croquis, sketches and illustrations
These words get mixed up all the time. Here is what each one usually means.
| Term | What it is | When it is used |
|---|---|---|
| Croquis | A quick body template to draw clothes over | First ideas |
| Design sketch | A rough drawing of an idea, by hand or tablet | Ideas and development |
| Fashion illustration | A finished, expressive drawing that shows mood | Presentations, portfolios, press |
| Flat, or flat sketch | A garment drawn as if laid flat, in line | Range building, tech packs |
| Technical drawing | A flat with construction notes and measurements | Tech packs, factories |
| CAD | Any of the drawn garments above, made on a computer | All through development |
So every computer-drawn flat is a CAD, but not every CAD is a production flat. A merchandiser asking for CADs may want colour drawings to show a retail buyer, with prints in place. A technical designer asking for CADs wants black line and every stitch. If it is not clear, ask which one before you start.
What a croquis is for
A croquis gives you a body to design on, so you can think about the garment and leave the anatomy alone. Fashion croquis are usually stretched to around nine heads tall, far longer than a real person, because long legs make clothes look elegant on paper. Here is how head counts compare, from a 5 head child to a 10 head editorial figure.
That stretch is exactly why you should not use a fashion croquis as the base for flats. Flats need believable proportions, so they are drawn over a more realistic body template.
What a good CAD looks like
- Clean vector lines. Few anchors, smooth curves, closed shapes.
- Consistent proportions across every style, which you get by drawing them all over one template.
- A clear hierarchy of lines, so seams and stitching are easy to tell apart. See line weights and stitch lines.
- Sensible layers, so colour and print can be changed without redrawing.
- A back view, when it is going to a factory.
How to make CADs
Most fashion CADs are drawn in Adobe Illustrator. The method is to place a template, draw half the garment, mirror it, then add details and stitching. Follow our step-by-step guide to drawing flats in Illustrator, or try the T-shirt walkthrough.
Once you have a few good ones, keep them. Starting from something close is much quicker than a blank artboard, which is why experienced CAD artists work from a flat library.
Questions people ask
What does CAD mean in fashion?
Computer-aided design. Designers usually use it to mean garments drawn in software like Adobe Illustrator. Patternmakers may mean digital pattern systems, and 3D teams may mean garment simulation software.
Is a CAD the same as a flat?
Often, yes. A flat drawn on a computer is a CAD. But a flat can also be drawn by hand, and a CAD can be a coloured presentation drawing with print, which is not what most people picture when they say flat.
What is a croquis?
A croquis is a quick figure drawing that designers sketch clothes over, usually with long, stretched fashion proportions. It is a body to draw on, rather than a drawing of a garment. In French the word just means a rough sketch.
What is the difference between a croquis and a flat?
A croquis is a body, and a flat is a garment. A croquis has no clothes of its own, and a flat has no body in it. Many designers use a croquis for early ideas, then move on to flats once they know what they are making.
What is a CAD designer in fashion?
Usually someone who draws garments, prints and colourways on a computer, often for a brand or a private label. Job ads may also say CAD artist or technical designer, and the duties overlap.
Which software do fashion CAD artists use?
Adobe Illustrator for drawn garments, usually with Photoshop for prints and textures. Patternmakers often use systems such as Gerber AccuMark, Lectra or Optitex. For 3D, common names are CLO, Browzwear and Style3D.
